What hedge laying is
A hedge left to grow becomes tall, thin at the base and full of gaps. In hedge laying, the stems are partly cut through near the bottom (a cut called a pleach), bent over and woven between stakes, with the living stems still attached. New growth then shoots from the base. The National Hedgelaying Society says this rejuvenates the hedge, keeps it dense and stock-proof, and gives wildlife habitat. It's different from trimming, which keeps a hedge the shape it is, and from cutting back hard, which doesn't give the same density at the base. For routine cutting, see hedge trimming.
Regional styles
There are many regional styles, developed to suit local stock, materials and species. The Society describes the Midland Bullock as the definitive style for the mainly thorn hedges of the English Midlands. It was made for farms with cattle and horses, with stakes at intervals, behind the stems towards the brush side, and hazel binders woven along the top. Ask a firm which style it uses for your area and why. A competent hedgelayer should be able to explain it. The Society also has a map of registered hedgelaying contractors and an optional accreditation scheme.
When to lay a hedge
Laying is a winter job, done while the plants are dormant, roughly late autumn to early spring. It also keeps work clear of the bird nesting season. For countryside hedges the law backs this up: under the Management of Hedgerows (England) Regulations 2024, regulation 6, cutting or trimming an important hedgerow on agricultural land is prohibited from 1 March to 31 August. There is an exception for hedge laying or coppicing between 1 March and 30 April. Birds can nest outside that window too, and damaging a nest in use is an offence, so a good firm checks first.
The Hedgerows Regulations 1997
The Hedgerows Regulations 1997 apply to hedgerows in or next to common land, protected land, or land used for agriculture, forestry, or keeping horses, ponies or donkeys, if they are 20 metres or more long or meet another hedgerow at each end. They don't apply to hedgerows within the curtilage of a house, or marking its boundary. Under those rules, removing a hedgerow generally needs a hedgerow removal notice to the council first, and the council can stop the removal of an important one. Laying is not removal, but if you are unsure whether a gap or a wholesale change counts, ask the council before you start.
What to expect on the day
A hedgelayer first assesses the hedge and removes unwanted growth, dead stems and any trees that are too big to lay. The remaining stems are cut and bent over, staked and, in some styles, bound. Brash and cut material is then dealt with by chipping, stacking as habitat piles or, where the rules allow, burning. A laid hedge looks stark in the first season, with bare stems close to the ground, then thickens as new shoots grow from the base. Livestock may need to be kept off it while it regrows. Gaps can be filled with new plants, and a laid hedge needs trimming on a regular cycle afterwards to keep it dense. Most firms need access along the hedge, so tell them about gates, ditches, overhead lines and neighbouring fields.
Benefits
- Dense, stock-proof growth from the base, without replanting.
- Habitat and cover for birds and small mammals.
- A hedge that lasts for decades, and keeps the local character of the landscape.
Grants and cost
Countryside Stewardship has paid for hedgerow work in the past, and farmers and land managers should check the current Countryside Stewardship guidance for what is open and whether you qualify, before starting work you hope to claim for. Cost depends on the length, height and density of the hedge, species, ground and access, stock fencing, and whether the cut material is chipped or left. Get quotes that state the style, the stakes and binders, and what happens to the brash.