Choose the tree for the space
Start with how big the tree will be when it is mature, not how big it is in the pot. A small garden suits a small tree, such as a fruit tree, rowan or crab apple. Large forest trees such as oak, ash and poplar need a lot of room. Ask the firm for the expected height and spread of the species and variety they suggest.
- Buildings. Allow for the full spread of the crown and for roots, which take water from the soil. Fast-growing, thirsty species such as willow and poplar are best kept well away from houses.
- Drains and paths. Roots tend to find leaking joints in drains, and can lift paving. Keep larger trees away from them.
- Overhead lines and boundaries. Leave space so the tree does not need regular cutting back to keep clear of cables or a neighbour's garden.
Clay soil and subsidence
Clay soils shrink as they dry out and swell when they get wet again. Trees take water from the soil, so a large tree close to a building on clay can contribute to the ground moving under the foundations. If your house is on shrinkable clay, ask a tree surgeon or arboriculturist about the species and distance before planting. If an insurer or lender has already raised concerns about existing trees, see our guide to mortgage and insurance tree reports.
When and how to plant
The RHS advises that specimen trees are best bought and planted between November and March, and its guidance says bare-root trees are only sold in winter and early spring, while the tree is dormant. They should be planted straight away, or temporarily heeled in. Avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged.
- Planting depth. The first flare of roots should be level with the soil surface when you finish.
- Staking. Larger or top-heavy trees usually need a stake or ground anchor to hold the roots steady while letting the trunk flex; small trees may not need one. Check the ties every year so they do not cut into the stem, and remove the stake once the tree stands on its own.
- Watering. The RHS notes that drought stress is common in newly planted trees, and that the soil can be dry around the roots while the surface looks damp. Check with a trowel before watering, and keep a weed-free circle around the base for the first three years.
Replacement planting for protected trees
If a tree with a Tree Preservation Order is removed, the landowner may have a legal duty to plant a replacement, and the council can attach a replanting condition to its consent. Government planning guidance says the owner should plant as soon as they reasonably can, and the council can enforce this with a tree replacement notice. Check the exact wording of your consent, and see our TPO and conservation area guide and the government guidance.
Moving established trees
Some firms can transplant or relocate an established tree using a mechanical tree spade or by hand-digging a large rootball. Success depends on the species, the size of the tree, the season and the aftercare, and a large tree will need regular watering for several years afterwards. If the tree is protected, you need consent before moving it, as well as removing it.
Buying healthy stock
Imported plants can bring in pests and diseases. Ask where the trees were grown. The voluntary Plant Healthy certification scheme lists certified growers and suppliers. The Woodland Trust offers free tree packs to schools and other educational establishments, local authorities and not-for-profit community groups, and says the trees it supplies are grown in the UK and Ireland.